Klingon Makeup by chuqun (Heidi Wessmann, hwessman@nurfac.nurs.utah.edu) ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Klingon Makeup I: How to make your own prosthetics nuq neH? prostheticlIj DaneH! How many of you have always wanted to LOOK like a Klingon? You've got a party, or that big Con, or you just feel cooler (sic) when you look like a full Klingon. (Actually, heavy makeup, no matter what, can be rather warm. Still, there's a big thrill when you look in the mirror at yourself and a rumpley Klingon looks back. Yet many people believe that makeup like that is impossible for the average joe. NOT SO! While a big-time project, latex work is within the reach of you. You CAN do special FX makeup. Many of the neat Trek aliens involve latex, and many of them are not as complicated as a Klingon (or, heaven forbid, a Cardassian). One of the simplest is a Bajoran. Vulcans aren't too difficult, but it helps if you have had a lot of practice, or a friend to help you, or both. When you make your very own prosthetics, they are custom-fit JUST FOR YOU! Nowhere else can you get a more perfect fitting prosthetic. Many costume and makeup dealers sell pre-made prosthetics. Often, these don't quite fit, or look as awesome. But if you can't find anyone who can, or is affordable, to custom-make a prosthetic, either you have to settle for ill-fitting pre-made, or you can look your best by making your very own. But the most fascinating creature is the Klingon. In three posts I will show you ONE way (there are countless other ways and techniques. This is just how I do it) to create, apply, and paint up a Klingon forehead prosthetic. This is one of my preferred methods. There are other ways of doing it, and I've played around with many different methods. This is the method I like best. While makeup like this can be done by oneself, it is rather difficult to do alone. With someone to help you, life will be much easier. To make a prosthetic you will need the following items: * An Assistant * Newspaper (any type drop cloth will do) * 10 lbs Plaster of Paris * jar of Petroleum Jelly/Vaseline, no substitution! * Nylon stocking, bathing cap, or swim cap (for hair protection) * Modelling clay, non-drying type * theatrical latex (industrial casting latex is colorless and often cheaper) * Long, dark-colored (auburn, brown, black) wig, preferably wavy or curly * Tan or brown flesh makeup (tone: personal preference) * toilet tissue, white, non patterned! * Spirit gum (completely optional, I prefer using theatrical latex to adhere prosthetics) * Klingon Attitude Now you are ready to start! ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Klingon Makeup II: Casting Upon Casting: When you want to make a cast of something, it's nice to have a master die from which to make your mold. The first step in making a prosthetic is to have a replica of your forehead and nose. I prefer to cast for the prosthetic with three casts: * A negative of you * A positive of you * A negative of the ``altered'' positive Prep time: CAUTION!!: Plaster of paris can generate enough heat to become uncomfortable, maybe damaging. USE WITH CARE! (As a substitute, there is this dental casting stuff available through medical/chemical supply warehouses. This stuff, while a bit on the expensive side, can be wonderful! It sets within seconds, it doesn't stick to hair, and won't shatter if dropped.) Plaster can get everywhere, and stick to everything. Before you cast, prepare the body part by washing it clean, then coating it with petroleum jelly. Slick the hair back, and cover well with nylon stocking, shower cap, or bathing cap. If you are worried about the plaster leaking through the stocking, a plastic bag can be worn under the stocking (I always do.) Once thoroughly netted and greased, you can then start the cast. (Eyes can be quite sensitive to plaster. I ALWAYS cut out little eye-size pieces of plastic film (about two inches diameter) and suction them to the eyes with the vaseline. This will protect the eyes, and won't really disform the cast. Casting: When applying the plaster, no matter which way, DO NOT COVER THE MOUTH! Breathing is a necessary evil, and the prosthetic won't do the castee any good if they missed a half-hour of breathing. (Plus struggling for air can often ruin a good cast.) Make sure the area is clean, and lined with a drop cloth or newspaper. It does not do to get plaster all over your girlfriend's rug. Sometimes plaster will not cohese enough to remain on your face. Sometimes a support ``ring'' of wadded-up newspaper framing the head keeps it from sliding off and away. The easiest position to cast this in is with the castee flat on their back. The assistant will do all the plastering for this first cast. For your first plaster layer, make about 1/2 cup to 1 cup of VERY THIN plaster. Paint this over the area to be cast. This first layer will assure a smooth finish on the first negative. Prepare your second plaster according to package directions (usually two parts plaster to one part water). Apply plaster to face, no thicker than an inch or two. If subject complains of excessive heat, a wet cloth may be applied to the plaster top, and a LIGHTweight icepack may then be applied. Too heavy, and it could crush the cast. It will take about half an hour for the plaster to quicken and set. Allow five minutes more after the plaster hardens to assure a good cast. Removing: Carefully lift face from plaster or the plaster from face. While rigid, the plaster cast can still be quite delicate. It will become much harder over a period of an hour, if you feel jittery about handling it. This is your first negative cast. Feel free to remove any rough edges, or fill in some air bubbles. Casting the positive: This is easy. Generously lubricate the inside of your negative cast with petroleum jelly (too little and the wet plaster will stick), then pour in more plaster of paris, enough to fill the cast. (Modelling clay can again be used on the cast to prevent spillage. Let set thirty minutes, then gently pull apart. You have just created your positive! Creativity: Now's the fun part. You now have an accurate (we hope!) cast of your forehead and your nose. Now, what kind of Klingon do you want to be? Use the modelling clay to form your ridges. Don't be over-generous with the ridges. Make sure the area around the eyes, and the edge of the nose are the natural size. After all, this is the part that will be glued to you. Of all the prosthetic, this needs to be the most accurate. But have fun with the forehead ridges. Each Klingon's ridges are as individual as fingerprints. When you form your ridges, make sure the clay is secure to the positive. Once you have formed and perfected your ridges, smoothing them as much as possible, you are ready for the third, and final cast. However your positive looks, that's how the final product will turn out. The Final Negative Cast: This is another easy one. Grease your positive well (including the modelling clay. It's oil-based. It can take it!) with the jelly, then cast the final negative, just like when you were first done. Set, then separate. You should have a final negative cast of a Klingon. You are now ready to pour your latex! ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Klingon Makeup III: The Nature of Latex Upon the nature of latex: Latex is a natural rubber product. Some people are allergic to rubber. To test for rubber allergy, apply a small bit of liquid latex to inside of arm. Let dry. Wait twenty-four hours. (Latex will often rub off. Place bandaid over rubber patch after it's dry to protect it.) If you detect any severe itching, redness, rash, swollen skin, hives, or other definite allergic reaction, then do not wear latex. Some people may be allergic to liquid latex when applied directly to the skin, yet have no problems when it's dry. If that's the case, then Spirit Gum (aka pine sap inna bottle) can be used to stick stuff on. If you got away with a minimal of itching, (latex will itch while it dries) then you're one of the lucky Klingons who's on their way! There are two (possibly more) types of latex available for makeup work. The most common is the theatrical latex available in costume shops and makeup- SF/X supply stores. There is also industrial casting latex. I've used both. They both have advantages and disadvantages. Theatrical is of a fine quality. Often it is flesh-colored, and mixes well with pigments of many types while it is wet. The Industrial is coarser, not as smooth, and comes untinted. However, it is cheaper. Theatrical costs about a dollar an ounce. Industrial costs about 60-100 per 25lbs. (Very few of you have little use for industrial latex in that amount. I recommend buying an 8oz bottle of Theatrical for this first try.) About eight ounces of latex should do. You'll only use about 4-6oz in casting the prosthetic. The rest is used to secure the prosthetic to your face. Latex can go a long way. Often, all that is required is a thin film. (Excuse my example, but a condom is just the right thickness.) A little thicker can be used in other locations. Casting the final product: Latex, depending on the thickness, can dry in anywhere from a few minutes to a few hours. In applying latex to the mold, fingers work best, but you must work quickly, for it will start to dry on your fingers. Taking the final negative cast, pour a little bit into the ridges, just enough to cover the bottoms. Smear the latex all around the ridges until you have an even coating. Allow this layer to dry. Then, apply a thin layer to the entire prosthetic, and allow to dry. Repeat three times. (Depending on the thickness of the layers, more may be needed.) Make sure the edges of the prosthetic aren't too thick. This will cause unsightly seams after application. If you want to do a nosepiece, cast it as a separate piece. If part of the forehead, it becomes awkward to work with. Once the prosthetic is dry, and you're satisfied with the results, lightly dust the prosthetic with talc. This will prevent the prosthetic sticking to itself after you have removed it from the cast. (I don't recommend anything greasy coming in contact with the prosthetic, for this will be difficult to remove from the prosthetic, and the prosthetic won't stick to you if it's on there.) Now, gently peel the prosthetic from the mold. Don't pull too hard. After the prosthetic is removed, lightly dust the other side with talc. Check for fit by actually placing prosthetic on your forehead and holding it there. The edge should run from where your ear meets your head, just under the eyebrows, and across the bridge of the nose. The nosepiece should fit snugly, and shouldn't come too close to the nostrils. Some trimming may be required around the edges to ensure a proper fit. Don't trim the eyes too far up, unless you trim them beyond your natural eyebrows. If the prosthetic fits well, then the wig may be applied. The prosthetic can be attached by several methods. Hot glue works well, as do other strong adhesives. Latexing the wig to the prosthetic sometimes works, but isn't reliable, nor do I recommend it. I've even sewn prosthetics to wigs. It's rather difficult. For the natural look of a hairline, individual hairs, threaded on a needle, can be brought through the latex to look like it's growing out. Or, once the wig and prosthetic are attatched, a line of latex can be applied between the prosthetic and the hairline to have that ``growing out'' look. Now you're ready to become a Klingon! ----------------------------------------------------------------------- Klingon Makeup IV: Transmogrification -or- How to go from Human to Klingon Are you ready to become a Klingon? With your prosthetic done, you are now ready to apply it. This can be done alone, however, it is much easier with an assistant. The area where the prosthetic is to be applied should be clean, dry and free of any oil, grease and dirt, as should any tools you may wish to use. However Any facial hair, such as eyebrows and the hairline, should have a thin coating of petroleum jelly to prevent latex sticking to it. Dry latex stuck in hair can be as nasty as chewing gum. Same thing with Latex in clothing. It is best to work in an easy-to-clean environment, with the clothing of the victim well-covered. Dry latex sticks to dry latex. This is my preferred method of sticking on prosthetics. Some people may opt to use spirit gum. This is fine, but seams will be more difficult to hide. When using latex, do not allow it to come into contact with the eyes. You can come close to the actual eye, but until it's dry, do not let it come into contact with the eyeball. If that happens, flush eye with water and contact your physician If applying latex relatively close to the eye, you might want to close your eyes until it's dry. Drying latex will cause the eyes to water. Application: Take the clean, dry prosthetic and position it over area to be applied to. Check for fit. See where the edge of the prosthetic comes to, and make a note. Lay the prosthetic aside. Remembering where the seam edge will be, apply a layer of latex that coats the surface of the skin. Try not to get latex on facial hair, greased or not. Allow to dry. (A blow dryer on its coolest setting can speed up the process.) Once dry, carefully place prosthetic piece in position and press firmly. Prosthetic will stick. If prosthetic does not adhere, remove prosthetic, and apply more wet latex to the skin and allow to dry. If there are little ``problem spots,'' wet latex may be applied in the problem spot, and allowed to dry. After dry, press prosthetic firmly into place. Repeat with any/all other prosthetics. When doing multiple prosthetics, work from the nose out. (i.e. nose before forehead) It is best if the latex is applied to the skin where the prosthetic actually touches the skin. Avoid liquid contact. When liquid of any sort (especially sweat) comes between you and the latex, the latex tends to fall off. For larger pieces, tissue, or lambswool, stuffed into the ridges, will absorb some sweat, thus prolonging the life of the prosthetic. If you will be in a hot place, or you will be extremely active, icepacks can help. It is best if they are worn under the arms, close to the body, or under the wig. The secret to keeping cool is to cool the blood. (I was a Ferengi once, and I wore an icepack under my headpiece. It helped tremendously!) Seamwork: Now that your prosthetics are in place and sticking to you, you can hide the seams. The best method I've found so far is the ``seam tape'' method. It is where the seams are covered by a ``tape.'' (Construction workers use this same method on drywall seams before they paint.) The best tape base I've discovered is common toilet paper, with torn edges. With the torn edges (as opposed to cut edges) are jagged and fibrous. They blend in well with the latex, and are virtually invisible once applied. Strips should be no wider than a half-inch and no longer than two inches. Smaller are fine, as they are easier to work with. To cover a seam: Place a thin coating of latex over the seam. Lay tissue directly in wet latex, making sure most, if not all the tissue absorbs latex. Allow to dry. A second thin coat of latex may be applied to hide any loose edges. Repeat until all seams are hidden. If a seam is extremely obvious, a second layer of tissue may be applied. But if too many layers are applied, it will look like a scar or a growth. Applying Makeup: Now that the latex is firmly in place, and the seams are covered, you can paint your face. An oil-based makeup works best, for the surface of latex is waterproof. An applicator sponge works well, but so do fingertips, and brushes. If there are any hairpieces to be applied, apply them first. Spirit gum can be used for this. Latex can also be used, but only if the ends of the hairpieces (like a mustache) are finished in dry latex. Apply like a prosthetic. I don't recommend latex for adhering hairpieces to the face. Apply the base color all over. (don't forget the neck and ears if they are to be exposed, as well as Klingon Kleavage, and hands. Save hands for the very last. In all honestly, it's easiest to just wear gloves, or skip the hands completely.) Make sure color is even. Finish this off with a powder to set the makup. Line the eyes with black or dark brown eyeliner to help bring them out. Mascara may even be used by both genders. Eyeshadow will work wonders. A brown-based eyeshadow or cheekblush may be used to highlight the ``shadows'' of the ridges. Brown-based lipstick will also help define the lips. Body makeup like this can rub off easily on anything it comes into contact with. To help prevent this, and keep makeup in place, spray a makeup fixative or aerosol hairspray over makeup. (Do keep eyes closed during this process.) This will prolong the life of your makeup. Costuming: If you have a turtleneck, or other over-the-head costuming, it is best if this is put on before the makeup is applied. As for everything else, it's much more comfortable if the costuming is put on after the makeup is done. I will not get into costuming here; that's a whole other article. Attitude! One of the most important part of makeup and costuming is the attitude. Not only do you look like a Klingon, you are a Klingon! Act like one! This is your opportunity to do and be all those things you normally can't do in Mundane life. Stomp around. Growl. Shout ``nuqDaq yuch Dapol!'' at everyone. Speak about honor. Your makeup isn't very effective if you are timid or reserved. Acting is extremely important. If you are a Klingon, then people will be more likely to believe it. And that's the whole purpose. BE what you LOOK like. It's alot more fun, and everybody will enjoy it. Thus endeth our lesson for today. Hopefully, I haven't forgotten anything. If you have any questions, Email hwessman@xolotl.lib.utah.edu or hwessman@nurfac.nurs.utah.edu and questions will be cheerfully answered. Please allow three working days for answers. Qapla'! chuQun